exploration journal

A jungle bird heaven in Kerala

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My parents and sister left Kochi at the very beginning of January. On my side, I had planned to stay for a few more days in the town to have time on my own, read and write – we had actually been quite busy, visiting many places, moving regularly, enjoying many activities.
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However, when we ended our stay in Kochi I did not picture myself staying there on my own for 4 more days. In India, cities – even a very charming one as Kochi – are quite tiring when you are a pedestrian, a traveller, a woman alone. (And I had not planned to spend a lot of money in a fancy hotel with a quiet terrace and garden !)
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There are no pavements, there is a lot of noise – a traveller told me that in India people use as much their horn (klaxon) in one day than people do in one year in Germany !
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And I had not spotted nice cafés with wifi…
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So I thought that I preferred to go to a peaceful place in nature.
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On the Lonely Planet I read about Tattekhad Jungle Bird Sanctuary.

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(Sanctuary = réserve naturelle in French)
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It was around 50 km away from Kochi.
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A jungle bird sanctuary.
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What I enjoy immensely since I am in Asia is to be surrounded by birdsong in the places where I am staying. It was the case in Lao, in the Enchanted Farm, in Auroville, in Kerala.
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So I thought : « A bird sanctuary !! In the jungle !! Waouhh, there will be amazing birdsong ! »
Haha.
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I thought it was the perfect place for me.

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In the guide, I noticed a small guesthouse that seemed very welcoming. I sent an email and got an answer a few hours later : there was a room for me in this small homestay inside the Sanctuary !
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YAY !
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I am there right now and I love it ! It is called « Jungle Bird Homestay ». It is a family house. The mother, Sudah, his son, Gireesh, and his wife Sandhya, are warm, caring and happy people.
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The house is blue and beautiful.
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As I had said that I wanted to read and write, they gave me a room with a tiny peaceful terrasse where I can concentrate. Birds are singing, and from there I can see a small lake and a rubber tree plantation (hévéas) – very common in Kerala.
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Sudah or Gireesh bring us birdwatching in the forest or jungle in the early morning.

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We leave around 6.45am. They can lend us binoculars if we do not have any. And here I am, neophyte birdwatcher, trying to see the birds in the trees ; discovering the bird universe ; and trying to understand the bird names in English : woodpeckers and cormorans, but also : Ceylon frogmouth, plum headed parakeet, racket tailed drongo, or Malabar pied hornbill…
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It is very interesting to be in a bird sanctuary « by chance », just because I love nature and birdsong,  while I am surrounded by Indian bird lovers who know the bird names by heart and carry huge cameras !
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The other day at lunchtime I asked a group of 3 birdwatchers from Mumbay why they liked birdwatching, why it was their passion. My question surprised them a lot and it was hard for them to answer… – it began with : « It’s like people who love golf. Do they know why they love golf ? ». Haha.
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Fortunately, there are not only bird experts here !
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When we come back around 10.30am we have a delicous indian breakfast.
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This Jungle Bird Homestay is the perfect place for people who travel alone, because you spontaneously get to meet all the guests.
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We are having all meals in the living-room of the family, at the same time.
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It is like at home !

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Around 7pm, at dinner time, our host calls us : « Dinner is ready ! » and we gather in the living-room.
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On my first night here there were 4 English people, 4 Indian people and a French guy, Guillem. The second day, we were 4 French people : Guillem, and a mother and her daughter from Nantes and Paris. Then I met people from Germany, Canada, Japan, India again…
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It changes everyday, it is really nice to meet all these people. We get to know each other, many of us go birdwatching in the morning, and we can organize walks together.
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So I wake up early, spend my mornings in the wonderful nature with nature and bird lovers.
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Gireesh is really full of energy and joy.

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He is passionate and runs excitedly whenever he sees a new bird, calling you : « come, come this way !! ». He makes jokes. He makes us listen Malayalam (the name of the Kerala language, which means « between hills and sea ») music in his car. When he is not in the jungle he works as a lawyer in a town close-by.
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After the late breakfast I read and write, have a nap, read, write (order varies !). Later in the afternoon, when the sunshine is softer, I have black tea on the main terrasse and we go out for a walk in the sanctuary with other guests.
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I cannot stop wondering about the beauty of Nature here.

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And I am starting to recognize birds !
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Haha, this is so unexpected and this is what I love about travelling !
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Then we have dinner and I read again or watch a movie.
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La vie est belle.
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Une réflexion au sujet de « A jungle bird heaven in Kerala »

  1. Bravo Julia pour ce joli blog où je retrouve sur cette page quelques moments partagés. Marie-Hélène

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